Decoding post-pandemic fashion behavior’s with Kate Nightingale: The resident Fashion Psychology expert at the LCF
“The pandemic hasn’t really changed consumer behaviour but instead intensified the changes that were already happening”
Kate is a true expert of consumer behaviour. She shares vast knowledge to offer creative solutions to her clients as part of her Human Experience Consultancy (Style Psychology). She also lectures at the London College of Fashion, ELLE Education & Regent’s University for MSc Marketing Psychology. Kate also applies her ideas to relevant cultural contexts too as a regular news contributor to renowned media broadcasters. In this interview, Kate highlights how the pandemic has reordered consumers hierarchy of psychological needs, which useful psychology strategies brands can adopt to build longevity in their customer loyalty and key methods to raise conscious awareness to better understand your own personal consumerism habits.
By Hannah Tappin
Hannah: Kate, where did your passion for Psychology start, and when did you realise psychology’s useful application to business and creative contexts?
‘Fashion behaviour, psychology and perception are all linked. I didn’t see any commercial application despite it’s value. I decided I wanted to utilise my education and create a new space for applying psychology to fashion’
Kate: My passion for psychology in general has existed since I was a child. Funny story actually, my family said that when I was only 7 years old, I came to my mother to ask why people lie. I was always curious as to why people behave and act in the ways they do. Later on, as I got older, I often pondered why people don’t communicate effectively and why people don’t understand what another person thinks and feels. Communication and relationships were two aspects most intriguing to me.
Then, I went to study Psychology. This led to me realising a lot of human communication that we display but aren’t consciously aware of, is around what we wear, buy and consume from brands. I found so many interesting studies within my favourite subjects on non-verbal communication. I learnt so much and constantly read and read. I also felt the field lacked representation and that it needed more spotlight. Specifically, there was limited coverage of Psychology in relation to consumerism in the fashion industry. Fashion behaviour, psychology and perception are all linked. I didn’t see any commercial application despite its value. I decided I wanted to utilise my education and create a new space for applying psychology to fashion.
I then moved to the UK and continued further studies. When I first told others about my idea of introducing psychology into fashion industries, a lot of people thought I was crazy! As my ideas developed, I wanted to give knowledge to brands in how they can utilise psychology to have better impact on consumers and their lives. I wanted to educate consumers also about the relationships we have with the products we buy and how this impacts our lives, particularly our relationship with ourselves.
‘When I first told others my idea of introducing psychology into fashion industries, a lot of people thought I was crazy at the time!’
Hannah: I think times have progressed a lot since then, with a changing industry seeking to know more about psychology’s value in fashion. What role do you think psychology plays for brands in the future- i.e., the rise in omni channel and decreases in physical stores- i.e., less sensory opportunity/ experience?
Kate: Psychology features everywhere, beyond sensory. The definition of Psychology is understanding human beings; who we are, why we act and how we can behave and feel differently. It still has its place online through social media, but also in products, packaging services and stores. After all products and services are created by human beings for human beings, it’s obvious we need to know about psychology.
‘When I work with brands, I don’t just analyse their position and identify their needs, I teach them minimal actions to improve experiences’
Every brand does consumer research, but up until a few years ago only a few consumer research companies had been hiring psychologists. I remember vividly a research agency a few years ago told me they had no psychologists. When I advised them, I noticed a lot of their mistakes were small and were easily avoidable but derived from a lack of understanding of the basic foundation of how humans think and work. This has considerably changed. Nowadays there are amazing agencies who employ lots of scientists from different behavioural disciplines. However, in many companies and brands, psychology very rarely features. It is still not the common need. I hope in the future there will be a chief behavioural officer alongside a CEO in big companies. A background in behavioural science can help you interpret research and discover insights to improve minimal details of a brand. When I work with brands, I don’t just analyse their position and identify their needs, I teach them minimal actions to improve experiences. Whether it is something small like move the button this way, or present this the other way and so on. If tiny details like sentence wording, presentation or facial expression are ineffectively displayed, this can drastically alter perception and experience for a customer.
Unless, you have a psychology trained employees that understands different forms of communication, this can limited results. All of my clients will tell you the same. Currently many brands will think they need a designer or UX expert but completely overlook the need for psychology in strategy. Often businesses want to streamline and consider hiring as either or but this needs to change.
Hannah: What are key psychology strategies you think brands can utilise in order to create loyalty with customers and obtain a positive perception/reputation?
Kate:It depends on the type of loyalty brand wants to create. It is short term or long term? As these will require contrasting approaches. If it is more short-term it will derive from conditioning, i.e., an immediate reward from performing an action to create a habit. A lot of loyalty programmes currently work this way, ‘I will give you points or a discount’. This conditioning theory derives from tests on animals and implies human consumers think the same way, but I believe we are much more complex and require a more nuanced approach. It can work but not for every product. For consistent products like food, basic necessities, which don’t drastically impact our self-concept or wellbeing I think it works nicely. For products which are not necessities, we need something more. We can’t just have that Pavlovian reward and punishment in place with a brand, instead we need a complex and meaningful relationship. For long term loyalty, brands should strive beyond simply sales. They should examine followers, responsiveness to feedback requests, as these require a consumer to have a strong relationship.
One of my current clients and I worked on an extensive customer research questionnaire, because we wanted to get to know consumers and how they make certain decisions. It wasn’t a five-minute questionnaire but rather around twenty minutes. There were more than four hundred responses in the first few days. That says a lot about consumer brand loyalty. Yes, they received a discount and there was a competition available, but this shows loyalty. The brand is improving but having strong loyalty from the outset is huge. Another client of mine, a furniture company, respond to every tweet as quickly as possible. They have a rule of within one hour. Small details like this, make consumers feel noticed and personal. Building intimacy is also critical so share your own story of your brand. It could be showing your employees to the customers, telling them why they love the brand. How does it make it them feel… what is it like working there… how does it inspire them? This makes you connect with a brand on a deeper level and on top of that it symbolises greater meaning around the product or service which enhances the value. A really important ingredient of creating loyalty is a constant interaction with the customer. The frequency should be regular but not overwhelming to the consumer. Making consumers feel rewarded, even in small ways is critical. Social Media likes and responses can also be perceived as a reward. These factors can help form a deep customer relationship.
Hannah: Speaking of your consultancy, I wondered what has been your favourite project in your consultancy and how was psychology impactful to the client’s business?
‘A really important ingredient of creating loyalty is a constant interaction with the customer. The frequency should be regular but not overwhelming to the consumer. Making consumers feel rewarded even in small ways is critical’
Kate: I have a few favourite ones. I have a trophy wall in my office. On the wall I have jewellery brand Swarovski, SNUG and Dowsing & Reynolds. They are my favourite ones. I am also working with a client on a new sustainable and ethical fashion brand which plans to launch by March. This is an amazing project as we are building a brand from the very beginning, step by step. Bringing great collaborators on board to create an exceptional experience is so rewarding. It is not easy, it can be super challenging, especially if a client isn’t knowledgeable. Equally, it can be great to challenge thinking about what it means to be sustainable, ethical and transparent as a fashion brand.
‘Currently, there is a lot of greenwashing… growth, transparency and openness to feedback are all key’
Currently, there is a lot of greenwashing. There are brands that aren’t super truthful and transparent. It was a goal to tick as many sustainable goals, a lot of which have been done thanks to the manufacturer. Growth, transparency and openness to feedback are all key.
When I work with brands it’s important for me to co-create in order to build a strong relationship. The element of co-creation and impact I think will become more and more key in business. This is also critical for building well thought out brand communities. At SNUG we designed their brand community strategy which has grown their followers. These nuances, which are built from psychology can be key to growth. What you share, say and engage with can be impactful.
Similarly packaging and unboxing for e-commerce brands are critical! A lot of brands ironically don’t think this through. It is particularly challenging with sustainable brands, which I am finding now with my client. Nevertheless, it’s important.
Hannah: So, in light of the pandemic, what do you believe are the main ways consumer behaviour has changed? What trends have you noticed?
‘The pandemic hasn’t really changed consumer behaviour but instead intensified the changes that were already happening. Consumers demand and have begun to hold brands accountable in accordance to their own increased higher-level values i.e., prosocial, kindness, environmentally conscious & socially impactful”
Kate:The pandemic hasn’t really changed consumer behaviour but instead intensified the changes that were already happening. Consumers demand and have begun to hold brands accountable in accordance to their own increased higher-level values i.e., prosocial, kindness, environmentally conscious, socially impactful. Consumers also demand more from the extra safety risks associated with the pandemic but also because as consumers we have had more headspace to notice. Higher levels of introspection from the existential threat of the virus has made us question and strengthen our own values.
‘Higher levels of introspection from the existential threat of the virus has made us question and strengthen our own values’
Another key rise is localism, which although isn’t new, the force of being in lockdown has led to people rediscovering the magic of shopping locally. This is great as many smaller high-street brands have been suffering for a long time worldwide. Bringing localism back to life is needed. Within the Business of Fashion’s ‘state of fashion report’, there is a large trend of localism. I recommend reading this as it’s a very insightful read. The challenge for businesses, property investors and citizens is deciphering the role of local high-streets. Also, what the role of big destination shopping complexes will be in the future.
‘Lockdown has led to people rediscovering the magic of shopping locally’
Interestingly, sometimes consumers don’t always act in ways we expect, i.e., the flooded pictures of Christmas shoppers in Oxford Street last year with few people wearing masks. Evidence, that people have a core need to feel normal and want to escape feelings of fear, danger and threat. Interestingly shopping when anxious can massively alter experience, which is another story.
‘These behaviours are not surprising. People drinking more, eating more or over-exercising, cooking more all stem for a need to regain psychological control’
Another element, is the customers increased need for a sense of control. Brands need to employ tactics to help their customers create higher sense of control over their lives. Ability to personalise, co-create or even vote on a new product their favourite brand is developing are just some things brand can give to customers. They can also develop content which can help customers regain some of their control. We worked with Klarna and Zopa Bank recently on just such campaigns where we created quizzes, videos and blogs about impulsive shopping and how to best control it. It was super impactful! Brands are being held accountable, as consumers demand for personalisation. Vitally, we currently have limited control, which can lead to consumers being more demanding. Which is why some people resort to impulsivity, indulgent behaviours and breaking lockdown rules. These behaviours are not surprising. People drinking more, eating more or over-exercising, cooking more all stem for a need to regain psychological control.
Hannah: When working with clients I would love to know how you alter your approach to fit varying and contrasting needs? What does the process look like?
Kate: There are key pillars of the consultancy process that we keep the same. We have certain strategic areas to establish, so if there is a brand strategy we are developing then it follows certain steps. Sometimes we remove some, sometimes we add extra. Often depending on the brand, budget and so on. If it is design related, brand, website, app and so forth, we have certain strategic definition stages. We do a number of workshops and exercises. We try not to limit the workshop section, but it depends on the budget and time. There are sections and areas we will never compromise on. Our process also depends on external factors, so we will conduct behavioural reviews at any key stages of design. Based on the established objectives, strategy and customer profile, we will adapt it to be either more top level or in detail.
Hannah: As a new business or an existing one looking to portray key brand messages and establish consistency what strategies or tips would you suggest?
‘Familiarity, similarity and congruency with subconscious association is critical. When there is inconsistency with branding imagery, sound and taste, movements consumers don’t respond well’
Kate: Consistency is a necessary ingredient for our subconscious mind. As our subconscious mind is tasked with super fast, automatic decisions, it requires this consistency in what it perceives. Any inconsistency between different stimuli presented and it might be forced to pass the decision making to conscious mind, which comparatively is extremely slow.' Then you can continue with 'from an evolutionary. One of the factors that gives our subconscious mind good resources is consistency. Familiarity, similarity and congruency with subconscious association is critical. When there is inconsistency with branding imagery, sound and taste, movements consumers don’t respond well. This often decreases brand perception for consumers in terms of authenticity and trust. Consistency makes our brains processing of brand information easier.
Hannah: Why do consumers ignore issues relating towards fast fashion and how can brands highlight the importance of slow fashion and sustainability?
Kate: Fast fashion can be perceived as cool, fun, exciting and new. It is emotional, sensory, indulgent and impulsive. It relieves a sense of having to think, I can simply treat myself. Whereas slow, sustainable fashion can project messages of responsibility and guilt. On this basis some consumers respond better to fast fashion in this sense. It is not a problem with what we are selling but instead how we communicate it.
‘The challenge for slow fashion is not to make consumers feel bad but instead make them feel good. Show consumers how they will feel prouder of their actions and more confident’
The challenge for slow fashion is not to make consumers feel bad but instead make them feel good. Show consumers how they will feel prouder of their actions and more confident. For example, How I can indulge in the soft textures of specially produced natural fabric and how my skin is going to breathe better and so on. The cherry on the cake, is you are contributing to something greater and helping someone else.
We can’t forget that most people are not yet at the level of psychological development where they have the inherent need to take care of others. We are by definition first selfish. If we aren’t personally okay or do not have our needs fulfilled such as desire for safety, belonging, we care less about external people. Therefore, when building sustainable brands it can ironically be beneficial to initially try to appeal to more selfish needs prior to selling the greater purpose. Filter a message through consumers’ selfish needs first to make it more intuitive. At crunch time people often choose themselves. So, as brand creators we need to be smarter to utilise needs and sell meaningful products. It is companies who need to change communications which will lead to faster behavioural change of consumers.
Hannah: Yes, I look forward to seeing transformative companies create positive change. How do you maintain good positive mental wellbeing when juggling your business, lecturing and so on? Any tips for maintaining a positive attitude working from home?
Kate: Well, like everyone I often fail beautifully at achieving many of those things. We are never perfect. There are days where I achieve great things and days where I feel rubbish. Anxiety and depression are normal, it’s okay to feel that and part of the human journey of development. One thing I adopt to make sure I feel good is investing in personal development. Every person will find their own ways, whether it’s writing a journal, going to therapy, meditation. Find your way. No one can tell you what works for you. Another key thing is devotion to your development. If I am not consistent, that’s when you can mentally feel worse.
Often it can be hard to commit to these habits when it’s the last thing you want to do if you are overwhelmed or stressed. If you are too busy find time, do a shortened version. Anything at all. Say to yourself positive affirmations on the way to work. This makes a difference. If you are not okay, you won’t be effective that day or create the desired impact. Whatever works for you will facilitate your desired impact.
‘Last thing in the evening wind down, quality of sleep is critical. Devote yourself to something relating to your personal development. Forgive yourself if that slips’
Vital to note, is lack of self-care is detrimental to your mental health and can also impact your physical health. Previously, if I have not rested properly my body will be sick in order to force me to rest. That’s how it works. Lastly, forgive yourself. The last thing you want is to make yourself feel guilty because you haven’t kept a promise for yourself. Also, a lot of people don’t keep promises to themselves but do so for others, so ask yourself who is the most important person your life. Is it others or you? You can’t help others if you aren’t okay. Last thing in the evening wind down, quality of sleep is critical. Devote yourself to something relating to your personal development. Forgive yourself if that slips.
Hannah: Great advice thank you. I will definitely take some of those suggestions on board. On the subject of guilt and do you have any strategies or tips to encourage purchasing more mindfully?
‘What I love the best is chocolate mediation. Meditation and mindfulness have been proven to considerably reduce impulsivity and enhance control’
Kate: Plenty! What I love the best is chocolate meditation. Meditation and mindfulness have been proven to considerably reduce impulsivity and enhance control. The moment we are impulsive, it is due to an emotional imbalance. We are feeling really bad or good. If you do something pleasurable i.e., the chocolate but meditate on it, by mindfully eating eat in a sensory way. The texture, the smells, the focus on the sensation of the moment as it happens. It takes you into the now. It allows you to appreciate the little things, it fulfils and balances the emptiness you were feeling and prevents you buying to fulfil that need. Step back, take three deep breaths or distract yourself. This often works as the connection you thought you had with the impulsive buying dissipates slightly.
Hannah: Okay great chocolate mediation certainly sounds like something I need to try! Relating to meaningful experience, how can brands in the new covid age enhance their strategy to provide meaningful online experiences to consumers?
Kate: A lot of changing and adapting, but the best way is to adopt video consultations. This already exists but there are new more adaptable solutions to other brands as well as luxury. One of my favourite app companies that helps build relationships is Proximity Insights, they provide technical analysis of engagement and personalise interactions. They implemented video consultations. Another one is Hero who offer video and chat-based consultations 1-1. Simply, responsiveness on social media can also boost this. Also, incorporating AI and more videos to create interactive content. Conversational content can also help with this.
Hannah: How can we use consumer psychology to predict future trends for fashion and beauty – can consumer behaviour now tell us anything about consumer behaviour in the future?
‘I am never surprised by changing customer behaviours as once you learn psychology and understand the foundations of human behaviour, trend prediction becomes easier’
Kate: The simplest concept is the simple theory of Maslow’s hierarchy of needs. One which is familiar to many. Essentially, examine which levels are fulfilled and what people will be searching for. Even before covid, the level of belongingness hadn’t been fulfilled for many people, personal interaction had drastically decreased. Localism also stems from belongingness. Often, I am never surprised by changing customer behaviours. Once you learn psychology and to understand the foundations of human behaviour, trend prediction becomes easier.
Hannah: Do you think careers as fashion psychologists will become increasingly important/In demand in the future?
Kate: Yes, I think it’s already happening. Increasingly businesses are hiring psychology graduates. Predominantly, for marketing but also gearing towards strategy. There are quite a lot of teams that are adopting behavioural teams at senior level. There is still work to be done, as often decision makers don’t always grasp the extent a psychologist can have impact. There is still education to be done with regard to psychology in consulting, advertising agencies and in business. I think the need for psychology’s application in business needs to be addressed at the board level.
Hannah: That’s promising to hear as a psychology graduate! Can you summarise what a typical day looks like for you?
Kate: Very varied. There isn’t a typical day, it depends on clients and the lecturing schedule. I lecture at UAL and ELLE education, so these require different demands to client work. It also depends on the stage we are at for brand projects. There is a lot of research, conversations with clients, teams, brainstorming, collaboration, analysis and business promotion. Some days I speak for hours on work-shops, lectures and meetings and other days I sit and ponder, analyse and plan.
Of course, when running a business, it’s vital to keep on top of money, ins and outs, new developments. I examine expenditure, who I need to pay, by what time and worst of all, tax administration.
Finally, a level of inspiration. This is great for your own personal development.
Hannah: Do you have any tips on how to consume products and services in a way that is most psychologically fulfilling in alignment with Maslow’s needs you reference earlier?
‘Be conscious, question yourself and be introspective’
Kate: I think this links back to the mindful shopping. Ask why you want something, what will it give you and can you achieve it without buying it? Is there an alternative that doesn’t cost? Be conscious, question yourself and be introspective. Especially, if it doesn’t make a difference to your well-being, think about why you didn’t achieve what you wanted through the purchase. What else can you do in the future to achieve you needs. A lot of people don’t like introspection but journaling can be very useful.
Hannah: On the subject of perhaps less mindful spending, how do events like Black Friday, January Sales, Christmas, Cyber Monday impact consumer behaviour?
‘The exposure to messages changes social group rules and causes adaptation. This links to changing attitudes with sustainable brand messaging. Continuous exposure leads to norm/rule changes’
Kate: Scarcity. It’s as simple as that. Limited time and loss aversion. It’s the fear of missing out. Also, social proof, everyone else is doing it so you feel pressured to join. Another one relating to sale discounts, is they can give you a sense of achievement ( cheated the system to get a deal). Partially it is also due to how society is built. If brands, like many have started to, communicate something different to sales during these periods, it is likely we will perceive them differently and behave differently. Brands are everywhere and they impact how we view the world. They can alter our world philosophy. The exposure to messages changes social group rules and causes adaptation. This links to changing attitudes with sustainable brand messaging. Continuous exposure leads to norm/rule changes.
Hannah: Part of your business and lecturing discusses style psychology in relation to fashion. In what ways can personal style tell others messages about who you are?
Kate: Our subconsciousness constantly perceives external stimuli. Whether it be associations with certain colours, textures or lengths and exposure. There are vast amounts of studies on this with regard to first impressions. Simply put, if you perceive someone as having certain characteristics based of how they present themselves, then generally the same application would be projected onto you if you dressed the same. I think it’s useful to think about your own associations and dress accordingly to your own positive ones. This way, you are dressing in a way that you perceive to be positive. Although, you can never fully control how others see you, so consider what you want to achieve or express for yourself. Again, this relates back to introspection. What do you want to become?
Hannah: Any tips for aspiring fashion psychologists, aspiring creatives or entrepreneurs? – What is a key piece of advice you would give to a new graduate?
‘Unless you are doing something you love every day, you won’t feel like doing it’
Kate: Think about your passion and mission in life. Unless you are doing something you love every day, you won’t feel like doing it. Sometimes it will be tiring, hard and you won’t feel like you are making progress. Remember this is normal, part of the process and okay. As long as you are in alignment with your values, passions and needs you will be successful. Think about your broad overall mission, which may come from lots of different areas of your live. Your job may not be directly relating but will help you reach the end goal. Know your highest values, main passions and find a career that builds on that.
Hannah: Thanks so much for interviewing, I think many readers will love to hear these psychologically insights. To learn more about Kate and her consultancy, click here.